Saturday, November 27, 2010

Ghana 101

Lesson # 5,263

Learn how to tie a baby to your back.


All the women carry their children like this, I haven't seen a single stroller in Ghana.

First you hold the baby on your hip then lean way down and scoot the baby around to your back. Then you take a cloth, throw it over yours and the baby's backs and take the top edges and tuck them around your arms. You make it like a bath towel and twist the top edges of the fabric around themselves. Then hike the baby up on your back and take the bottom edges of the fabric around your waist, tie them in a knot and tuck them underneath each other.

I'm definitely NOT an expert at this yet, but thanks to Emelia's sister I met in Sunyani on Friday I got to walk around with her son on my back for a little while. All the people on the street thought it was hilarious but I was just happy to have a baby that didn't cry when it saw me, thinking I was a ghost.

Oh, Ghana!

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Accra and Volta Region

Living in Montana, I've seen powerful rivers, beautiful cliffs, and gorgeous nature but the Volta Region of Ghana gives Montana some decent competition.

AFS students from Belgium and from The United States went on a study-tour of the Volta Region this past weekend, and really, we had a blast!

I left for Accra the 12'th of November on the night bus and arrived at five in the morning. On the way through Sunyani, Kumasi, and the rest of the Ashanti Region there was the most beautiful lightning. I've seen it a couple times in Dormaa, but mostly in southern Ghana. No rain or thunder, just grey skies and lightning. I was listening to The American Dollar and would fall asleep and wake up over and over again to the same pretty view of lightning and night sky in Africa. (Thanks for the music sweetheart, it made it more magical.) At first I thought the bus kept turning their brights on and off, but whenever the lighting would go at it the entire valley we were driving through would light up like it was daytime.

When I arrived in Accra I met Dabney, AFSer from Alaska at circle. Circle is this really large roundabout in Accra. Accra is huge, I would say even bigger than New York City. They have sections, like Achimota and Weija, but it's still all called Accra. Takes maybe two hours to get across it by car or tro-tro. Dabney gave me some tro-tro lessons while we found our way back to her house in Weija. When a tro-tro rolls up to the side of the road a guy will use a hand signal and shout out where the tro-tro is heading. If you're going anywhere in between here and the place they called out you can hop on, if not you wait for another tro-tro. The way they call out for the tro-tro's is absolutely hilarious to me! "Curcu-curc-curc-curcllleee" or "Malaaaam Junction, Mallam, Mallam, Mallam". The names of the places just blend together until "Dorm Pillar 2" becomes "Dormapilaaytoo". Without Dabney I would have been totally lost, but by the end of my stay in Accra I could have managed to at least get to Circle.

We met her host family and then headed out for my first pizza I've had in about two and a half months. It was so good, and totally worth the 6 cedi. Later that day we went to a store close to her house and met a Mulsim man about to go for his call to prayer. With some serious gesturing and pointing and laughing we figured out he was inviting us to go with him. We walked around the corner to this small, little half-finished mosque and washed our feet, hands, face, and arms before we went in. He gave us scarves to cover our heads and let us stand on mats behind him and another man while they prayed. It was beautiful and really kind of the man to let us come and watch and take photos like he did. And Rev, the mosque had about two or three of the plastic, recycled mats with the pretty designs on it!




On Monday the Belgian Consulate invited the Belgian students and the three American students to a party celebrating their King's birthday. Driving through the gates I felt suddenly small and under-dressed. The party was held at this mansion of a house, in their backyard with classical music playing and tons of people from all over the world to talk with. I spoke with a couple from Russia, Spain, and Malta and also a Ghanian woman who, to everyone's surprise gave me some tips on washing clothes by hand without getting the little cuts on your knuckles. I talked with one of the students and we both felt the same way, after living in Ghana with our host families for so long, we felt a little out of place at the party. It doesn't mean we didn't really enjoy ourselves though! We thoroughly enjoyed the cheese and crackers, salads and fruit, Belgian wraps with french fries (french fries were invented in Belgium I learned, and that's what they're famous for, not waffles), and fruit and cake dipped in chocolate. Margaret went back for more of the chocolate at least ten times. I wasn't far behind her I don't think! We were invited to spend the night and all soaked in the hot showers and great breakfast the next morning.




On Thursday evening we left for the Volta Region. The drive kept bringing us into more and more beautiful and mountainous areas of Ghana. Half-way to Ho we went by a river-town where instead of the normal plantian chips and fanice that the women sell from their heads to the buses and taxis that stop there they had a million different fishy-looking things. Someone on the bus dared to buy a bag full of green little dried fishes. From far away it looked like dried seaweed but everyone agreed that it was not good, and not seaweed. Blech. Once we got to the hostel that night we had a great night all watching Lost (about a a hundred or more episodes all on one disk bought in Ghana for 2 cedi) and talking about our host families and things we'd learned since we last saw each other. We also spent about two hours taking braids out of a Beglian students hair because it was really hurting her head, braids just aren't made for Obruni hair.

On Friday we went to Wli Falls. The drive there was spectacular, trees that are five feet from the center to the edge I swear! The walk to the falls took about a half hour, maybe even longer with all the stopping we did to look at the streams we passed or take photos. When we got to the falls a class was there on a field trip who all laughed at us as we took photos in front of the falls. I try hard to not be too tourist-y while I'm here, but I think everyone relaxed about it for the study tour. We swam underneath the falls and all tried to get as close as we could to right underneath where all the water poured in. While I looked up at the falls I felt a bit like Justin, trying to guess how much water was flowing out per second. A couple sat underneath the falls, from the Netherlands I think, and I talked with them about what they were doing in Ghana. It's incredible how many people come to volunteer and work in Ghana from European countries. They had been working at a school for three months and now were taking their last two weeks as a vacation before they went home. I don't know where we'll end up traveling Justin, but let's definitely do some waterfall watching.


The study tour included a night out to go dancing, a cultural dance performance that blew my mind, and a trip to a pool. We all had a lot of fun and decided to get together again in December for one of the students birthdays.

Now I'm back in Dormaa, I missed my host family and am really glad to see them again. I've always got a lot more to say but I knew I should write a little about the study tour before it's been too long.

I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving back home, I love you all.
Write more soon!

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Waiting

is something you do here a lot. Three actually means four... thirty.
While I was waiting for our drumming instructors I took a few photos:
(There are a few more that haven't made it on my blog on facebook.)



Saturday, November 6, 2010

What a lovely Saturday

Today started out like what I'm beginning to call a normal Saturday for me in Dormaa. I sleep in a little later, wash my clothes (preferably in the sun!), sometimes read Justins letters or write him, help with chores, sweep my room, have some brunch, talk with Leticia, and read. While I was walking out of the kitchen today, going to collect my washing tubs since I heard my host dads car pull up to the house and it's expected for me to go greet anyone who comes to the door, I almost ran straight into some girls from school. DormaSS is on break until Wednesday so all the borders get to go home. Mavis and Sakina, from my class, came walking up to me laughing. "You wash your clothes Acadia?! Good, good!" I hadn't cleaned up after washing and chores yet and I wasn't really sure how to entertain them but we eventually got settled on the couch looking at my senior yearbook from Lincoln County High School. They laughed and laughed at how 'silly' all the students are in my school and were really interested in the 'best of's (best eyes, best hair, ect.). I took a quick shower while they finished looking through it and then we walked to town. I realized, this was the first time that I've just hung out with Ghanian friends I've made on my own. It took two months! We bought some fanyogo and biscuits and stopped by on about ten people. That's the way it is I've figured out, you just go and visit people. Knock on their doors, sit and talk for maybe ten minutes and then go to the next house. Mavis's mother was working at one of their bars around town that was completely filled with people celebrating a funeral.

I might have said a few things about funerals before but I can never get over how different they are from western funerals. Everyone comes, they come to show their respect of course, but people who have never met the person come. A normal attendance for a funeral is about 100-300 people. A funeral normally lasts about two or three days. A type of wake is sometimes held the night before the funeral where the family and close friends who attend stay up all night. No one's allowed to sleep. Almost all the funerals are held in large fields (soccer fields usually) in front of churches or schools. Huge red and black tents are set up where all the elderly people gather and chat in Twi.

While Sakina and I were waiting for Mavis who was busing tables for her mom Mavis's grandmother taught me how to tie my hair up in a scarf African style. I finally get to use an African scarf my mom gave me last Christmas the right way! When I came home later I showed Emelia and she looked really happy and said "Church tomorrow!", so we picked out a dress that I'll wear it with to church tomorrow.

Church I've decided is just going to be a thing I go to once in a while. I've spoken with Richard about it a lot and he says that of course I don't have to go, but I think they like it when I attend once in a while. It's from 9 to noon, the service is always in Twi and the Sunday school is a bit too packed for me. So I'll just sit in the pew and listen to the choir.

When Mavis, Sakina and I left her mothers work we headed into the market. Mavis insisted on getting shillet (I don't think that's the correct spelling), a rock-looking piece of chalk that you chew. At school a few people chew actual chalk because they can't buy it on campus. I told her I'll never try it, I just don't want to chew a rock, and I think it's kind of addicting anyhow. On the way out of the market we decided to look for some small earrings for me because I can't wear long ones to school. 20 pesewa (15 cents) for a little pair of gold hands. I really like the market here.

This didn't really have such a subject, I was thinking maybe I'd write about the women I've met so far in Ghana, but I'll save that for another post. This was just about a nice Saturday. Musa, the security guards little boy, is waiting to play with paint on my computer so I'll hurry off.

I love and miss everyone at home, I think the hardest part of the homesickness is gone so no worries!

And Mr. James, if you read this I thought you'd be interested in this quote from a wonderful student named Belinda who I sometimes sit next to in class: "Ghana isn't like America, we have corrupt leaders. Sometimes they buy cars and big houses with money from the people of Ghana!"
I made sure to tell her about our good and bad leaders, that just because we're America doesn't mean our government is perfect, far from it a lot of the times.
Miss your class. Everyone I've mentioned the holocaust to here has no idea what I'm talking about.



And Justin, darling, I met Mavis's boyfriend today on our rounds of visits. She made me promise that when she comes to America she could meet you. I said it was a deal.

Mavis and Sakina: